HOW TO RAISE AND MANAGE ORCHARD MASON BEES FOR THE HOME
GARDEN
Stephen Bambara, Extension Entomologist
CAUTION: This information was developed for North Carolina and may
not apply to other areas.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The Orchard Mason Bee is the common name of a nonsocial native
bee (Osmia lignaria ssp.) that pollinates our spring fruit trees, flowers
and vegetables. This gentle, blue-black metallic bee does not live in
hives. In nature it nests within hollow stems, woodpecker drillings
and insect holes found in trees or wood. Sometimes there may be
dense collections of individual nest holes, but these bees neither
connect or share nests, nor help provision or protect each others'
young. Also, they are active for only a short period of the year. They
are not aggressive and one may observe them at very close range
without fear of being stung, which makes them excellent for
enhancing our yards and gardens. They add beauty, activity and
pollination to our plantings. However, they do not produce honey.
About Orchard Mason Bees
The female Orchard Mason Bee visits flowers to collect pollen for its
young. She forms a small ball of pollen and nectar in the back of the
nesting tube and lays an egg on the ball. She then collects mud to
form a cell partition and repeats the pollen ball-egg laying process
until she reaches the mouth of the tube where she caps the end with
mud. Starting the life cycle in the spring, adult males emerge from
tubes first, but must wait for the later appearance of the females in
order to mate. This event often coincides with the redbud (Cercis)
bloom. Females alone, begin founding new nests in holes to make a
row of 5-10 cells in each nest. Females collect the pollen and nectar
and lay eggs. Their short foraging range is about 100 yards from the
nest. Activity continues 4-6 weeks and then adults die. During the
summer, larvae develop inside the nests, make cocoons, and become
new adults resting in the cells. With the onset of fall, the adults
become dormant as they go into hibernation. These bees require
some cold temperatures before spring in order to break their
dormancy.
Nest Block Construction
The native eastern species of Orchard Mason Bee will nest in holes
drilled in a wooden block. Untreated 4" x 6" lumber works great. Holes
can be drilled in the wood on 3/4 inch centers. They should be 4-8"
deep (depending upon the size lumber used), smooth, and a 5/16"
diameter hole is important. A smaller hole encourages higher
production of male bees which reduces the reproductive potential of
the population. Blocks may be drilled from either face giving shallower
or deeper holes. Shallower holes may produce more male bees. Do not
drill completely through the lumber. Drill the hole to a depth about
1/2 inch from the back of the block. Attach a roof to provide
protection from the midday sun and rain. Outside surfaces may be
painted or stained, but do not use wood preservatives. One hole may
be drilled in the back to provide a means of hanging the block. Face
nesting blocks as close to the southeast direction as possible to catch
morning sun and affix it firmly so that it does not sway in the wind. It
should be located at least three feet above the ground.
These bees need mud to construct cell partitions, so adding a mud
supply may be helpful if needed. This can be a trench or tub located
nearby where muddy soil is maintained during the nesting period. The
mud should not be highly organic or sandy. Clay soils work well.
Do not move the blocks during the weeks of active nesting. Once all
nesting activity has stopped, the nesting block may be moved to a
shelter such as a shed or unheated garage. Be gentle when moving
occupied blocks at this time of year. This will give the bees added
protection from predators and parasites, yet will allow them exposure
to the cold temperatures that they need to break hibernation. If
desired, bee emergence can be delayed for a short period by
refrigerating the block in the spring until you are ready for the bees
to emerge. Bees will need three days to warm up following
refrigeration.
Orchard Bees are sometimes reared in cardboard tubes, hollow reeds,
or straws. Cardboard tubes and straws need more protection from
weather and parasites. Paper straws allow better inspection and
manipulation. Plastic straws hold moisture and allow mold to develop
and are not recommended. Bees may also be purchased commercially.
You can be creative with your nesting blocks. Blocks can be made
from any shape wood. They may be cut to a fancy shape, be a small
piece of dead tree limb, fence post or scrap of firewood. You can vary
the diameter of the drilled holes to attract different species of
tube-nesting bees or nonsocial, beneficial wasps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service
Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June
30, 1914. Employment and program opportunities are offered to all
people regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age, or
disability. North Carolina State University at Raleigh, North Carolina
A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local
governments cooperating.
© 2001 NC Cooperative Extension Service
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ENT/Ort-109 2/12/1997; Revised November, 2002
GARDEN
Stephen Bambara, Extension Entomologist
CAUTION: This information was developed for North Carolina and may
not apply to other areas.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The Orchard Mason Bee is the common name of a nonsocial native
bee (Osmia lignaria ssp.) that pollinates our spring fruit trees, flowers
and vegetables. This gentle, blue-black metallic bee does not live in
hives. In nature it nests within hollow stems, woodpecker drillings
and insect holes found in trees or wood. Sometimes there may be
dense collections of individual nest holes, but these bees neither
connect or share nests, nor help provision or protect each others'
young. Also, they are active for only a short period of the year. They
are not aggressive and one may observe them at very close range
without fear of being stung, which makes them excellent for
enhancing our yards and gardens. They add beauty, activity and
pollination to our plantings. However, they do not produce honey.
About Orchard Mason Bees
The female Orchard Mason Bee visits flowers to collect pollen for its
young. She forms a small ball of pollen and nectar in the back of the
nesting tube and lays an egg on the ball. She then collects mud to
form a cell partition and repeats the pollen ball-egg laying process
until she reaches the mouth of the tube where she caps the end with
mud. Starting the life cycle in the spring, adult males emerge from
tubes first, but must wait for the later appearance of the females in
order to mate. This event often coincides with the redbud (Cercis)
bloom. Females alone, begin founding new nests in holes to make a
row of 5-10 cells in each nest. Females collect the pollen and nectar
and lay eggs. Their short foraging range is about 100 yards from the
nest. Activity continues 4-6 weeks and then adults die. During the
summer, larvae develop inside the nests, make cocoons, and become
new adults resting in the cells. With the onset of fall, the adults
become dormant as they go into hibernation. These bees require
some cold temperatures before spring in order to break their
dormancy.
Nest Block Construction
The native eastern species of Orchard Mason Bee will nest in holes
drilled in a wooden block. Untreated 4" x 6" lumber works great. Holes
can be drilled in the wood on 3/4 inch centers. They should be 4-8"
deep (depending upon the size lumber used), smooth, and a 5/16"
diameter hole is important. A smaller hole encourages higher
production of male bees which reduces the reproductive potential of
the population. Blocks may be drilled from either face giving shallower
or deeper holes. Shallower holes may produce more male bees. Do not
drill completely through the lumber. Drill the hole to a depth about
1/2 inch from the back of the block. Attach a roof to provide
protection from the midday sun and rain. Outside surfaces may be
painted or stained, but do not use wood preservatives. One hole may
be drilled in the back to provide a means of hanging the block. Face
nesting blocks as close to the southeast direction as possible to catch
morning sun and affix it firmly so that it does not sway in the wind. It
should be located at least three feet above the ground.
These bees need mud to construct cell partitions, so adding a mud
supply may be helpful if needed. This can be a trench or tub located
nearby where muddy soil is maintained during the nesting period. The
mud should not be highly organic or sandy. Clay soils work well.
Do not move the blocks during the weeks of active nesting. Once all
nesting activity has stopped, the nesting block may be moved to a
shelter such as a shed or unheated garage. Be gentle when moving
occupied blocks at this time of year. This will give the bees added
protection from predators and parasites, yet will allow them exposure
to the cold temperatures that they need to break hibernation. If
desired, bee emergence can be delayed for a short period by
refrigerating the block in the spring until you are ready for the bees
to emerge. Bees will need three days to warm up following
refrigeration.
Orchard Bees are sometimes reared in cardboard tubes, hollow reeds,
or straws. Cardboard tubes and straws need more protection from
weather and parasites. Paper straws allow better inspection and
manipulation. Plastic straws hold moisture and allow mold to develop
and are not recommended. Bees may also be purchased commercially.
You can be creative with your nesting blocks. Blocks can be made
from any shape wood. They may be cut to a fancy shape, be a small
piece of dead tree limb, fence post or scrap of firewood. You can vary
the diameter of the drilled holes to attract different species of
tube-nesting bees or nonsocial, beneficial wasps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service
Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June
30, 1914. Employment and program opportunities are offered to all
people regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age, or
disability. North Carolina State University at Raleigh, North Carolina
A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local
governments cooperating.
© 2001 NC Cooperative Extension Service
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ENT/Ort-109 2/12/1997; Revised November, 2002
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